The Wall

Sometime there is far more depth to a good wave

its about:

waiting

monitoring the forecast

reviewing the diary and lining it up

good warm up sessions and being ready

shuffling work into the evenings to cover the time

getting up and out in the middle of the night

getting to the beach at the right time

and knowing the tides and the nature of the wave

its about

talking yourself into going out

the cold change in the wet car park

pushing your limits a bit

getting into the spot in the line up

and when the time comes and the big one approaches

its about having the nuts to turn and go for it

to give the extra paddle

and then you are up and in the moment

that big drop

that wall

the turns

the escape or the fall

that sensory overload on your brain

and the way it captures snapshots of the moment for later

then its over

just a bloke in a wetsuit

sitting

smiling

waiting again

 

 Left home 3.30 am and was in Yorkshire before sun up, called it to perfection and they were rolling in. Last wave was on one of the larger sets of the day - we figured after it was maybe the best we had seen through- what a fricken drop, the biggest thing I have caught on the east coast no question - I made it no question too, I think that's what I am so stoked about. I'll not forget that wall for a long time either. funny thing was the shear drama of the moment eclipsed the wave before which was right up there in my all time list of waves. when the big ones drew the water off the reef it got so f*cking good.

what a run, if I went for bath now i'd probably find waves.

what a fricken surf - magic.