Naturally the forecast shrunk as it firmed up but it was still running at 14 seconds period so good waves were coming and i had a window. Got to the beach 6.4 in hand and surf was certainly up, well up and very clean.
Starting my paddle out I watched a guy catch one on the outside and although he was ahead of it he was being chased by a healthy sized barrel...
Things went downhill from there, I wasn't getting out, in fact fifteen minutes later, and feeling flogged I was back on the beach. I moved along and had another go and finally made it out having taken an absolute hammering.
I got one early and it was a big old lump, made it to the bottom before as it closed out and I ejected and faced that paddle again. I followed this up with 30 minutes of dodging some big dark sets and losing the feeling in my right hand due to a hole in my glove.
After some mincing around I talked myself into another one and just kept telling myself to paddle hard and that I would have loads of time to make the drop..just keep calm. So I paddled hard for a big one and it went down hill from there. I made it to my feet but got caught and pitched by the lip - tried to hold on which seemed to make the situation worse and finally went over with the wave and took an absolute battering. Found the surface, sat outside for a while and called it a day, soundly beaten and kicking myself for being such a kook.
Luckily the Internet made me feel better with reports of others who had struggled and suffered a similar fate.
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