Monday 1 November 2010

if you don't go....

if you don't go you don't know.....well I went.
It pushed through the wind :) . Was pretty much first to the beach and got in the water before 8 and before it was fully light, just me and a seal for the fist 15 mins.
Was pretty small but perfectly lined up for longboards, really well lined up in fact – indeed, when I first paddled out I considered going back in for my carpet as the first set was a bit bigger than I had first thought.
I could see that it was pealing nicely under the cliffs inside the point and paddled over for a look and was rewarded. Was only ever waist to chest high but it was quite consistent and real fun on the longboard, some long rides chasing sections and a couple of fast belters. Shared it with another couple of lads for a while but always had the pickings being the only one on a log. Took a bit long for the sun to show over the cliffs though!
Was dead by 10am and paddle back over to the pier but was knackered so caught a couple and came in. Left the beach after 11am and was home by 1 very happy. Just as was reversing out my slot a decent set came through so it looked like it may have been picking up as it dropped again.

Wednesday 27 October 2010

not a great surf trip

shit last weekend for me. should really put on MSW>

roll back one week.

Great swell forecast for scotland at the weekend, and I am in Edinburgh for a wedding (in perth (Dunkeld)) .

Mon - frid, get very excited about the forecast waves.

Friday night driving up for 4.5 hours up to jockland and my board bags are flapping on the roof drving us crazy.

Wife and I have argument about the world revolving around my surf boards (which are more important than child but on an equal footing to Lotus)

We stop for twenty minutes for me to sort them out - one goes in car (causing child/wife issues) the other back on rack out of its bag.

I arrive and pour two gallons of water over my head and down my neck lifting it off roof.

Sat morning - wind direction to shit to bother leaving the house for the beach.

Sat afternoon - sat nav cock up and we arrive at the wedding after the bride. Marrital argument about my ability to find a parking spot in dunkeld and the fact "I can't just turn around in the hight stree because that car is coming out"

I agree to drive home from wedding as I plan to be in the water at first light sunday morning

Home to my folks by 1am after a 1.5 hour drive

Sunday morning - up at 6.30am looking for waves.

Drive for two hours with no luck - try every beach, nook and cranny I know - find one spot but its way too dangerous to go solo.

Forgotten Visa debit card (had it out for the wedding) so struggle to pay for fuel.

Long drive home sunday night, strap buzzing against board (which never got wet)

Child put to bed in swim nappy (don't ask) and is covered in [Censored] and upset at 3am.

Monday wake up late for another day of shitness

Wednesday 29 September 2010

wales and the black mountain

good couple of days driving all over wales, finally got to drive tiff's hairpin on the Black Mountain.

Highlights of the trip

The hairpins out of the Rhonda Valley - A4061 - Spectacular and I got them empty.

B4560/B4348/B4352 Bwlch - Telgarth - Hay on Wye - Hereford - Miles and miles of perfect sweeping twisties - and very quiet.
B4560 - Beaufort - Bwlch - Mini Black Mountain - awesome, open hairpins - blah blah blah - epic.

B4355 - Knighton - Delfor(A483) - Open Hilly fast epic, felt sorry for the copper manning the speed gun in Delfor cos they must have heard me coming from miles and miles away - glad I hit thirty at the signs!!!!

B4391 - Tanent Valley up to Pale - The run up the side of the stunning mountain valley is a bit special - wide enough to overtake....well his paint should come off the wing!

Lastly the Black Mountain road - Was a shit drive to the south end of it but once on it....well worth it - much better road than the butterbubs which I drove last month - and then there is Tiff's hairpin which he always drifts around on fifth gear. - We did the corner proud Shame it had finally dried out - you could go a long way up that hill using the side window! (LSD!)




Tiff's hairpin

Top of the mountain

Near Hay on Wye
B4560

Tuesday 21 September 2010

sunny salty

lovely sunny day on the log at salty, decent ground swell too.



Wednesday 10 February 2010

hells mouth

Tue - Anglesea flat at 9am went to Hells. Was pumping well overhead on the sets with a direct offshore wind.
Can't say I enjoyed it that much, shifting peak with no obvious place to sit and the set waves closing out unless you happened into just the right spot. Battle into the wind to get into them as well. Kind of reconfirmed my opinion that hells cant really handle that size. rhiw was a smallish close out as well.

got a handfull of waves but nowt to write home about, thought I was going to get under the lip of the first one but not to be. Good to be out in some solid groundswell though - felt totally comfortable.

Friday 5 February 2010

cromer

surfed cromer on wednesday afternoon - it was truely terrible, glad I got in just to say i did, but jesus, there was nothing there and the little beach reef I was trying to surf had the most godawful rip, i couldn't stay with the peak - all a bit sad really.

Thursday 21 January 2010