Tuesday, 11 September 2012

That 28 second period 50 year swell.

 
In years to come, I will be able to say I surfed the greatest swell ever not to hit the east coast. Our old friend MSW was calling a foot or so on a 28second period and, despite it being impossible without the removal of Norway, we all wanted to believe something special was about to happen.
 
Even after MSW acknowledged an error in the data model, we still grew our hair out and developed the Bohdi thousand yard stare.
 
Anyway I was on the east coast for work so took a car full of boards - you know, just in case - and the result was very very small but not unpleasent longboarding in the shelter of Caves in Sandsend.
 
"I WAS THERE"

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