Thought Sat was going to be the only day and that was average at best - Then got a text in the eve from Skimmer2 saying he was going out Sunday morn so sheep mentality set in and well if steve was surfing then I was too. I paddled out in the dark on my own on Sunday morning to catch it on the push and was rewarded with some nice waves, punchier than the forecast suggested. Once it got light it then got very grey and rainy and almost impossible to see the waves coming in.
With noddled arms and a frothing brain I had a look at the forecast late last night and lo and behold there was a swell showing for today! - again hard to tell quite how good it would be (Tomorrow always looked to be THE day of this swell). So I did some work first thing and took a drive figuring I needed some fuel anyway and why not get it from the Dunbar Asda. Well as I was in Dunbar anyway and had my boards in the car I went for a look around and my current favourite waste of time was not just working but looked to be pumping... well not pumping like it can but still pretty good for a cold Monday.
So I scuttled back to the car, wedged my raging boner into my wetsuit and took my 6.3 and 7.0 carpet down to the reef. Started on the 6.3 but things were a bit lumpy and the end section fat so I switched back to the carpet and had a belting solo session - tried to get tucked in on one and took a lip to the head, stayed up though, just as well it was looking a bit shallow.
The reef turned off just as the wind started getting serious so off home for some more work and the school run. Just unpacked the car - its howling and fucking freezing.
I love this fucking sport
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