Agent Orange

Goes like shit of a shovel. Two of the best surfs of the year, nice evening surf then the following morning

got up 4:30 to hit the beach at first light and it was pumping. The first half hour solo was just about as good as I have surfed and the new board the best board I have ridden - and I do love my single fin.

Wave number two was the money as they say, easy roll in then it walled up all the way to the inside allowing my average ability to draw the kind of lines that my  mind often plans but rarely delivers. Speed up for the last section then up and over the shoulder, paddle out and repeat. Someone later paddled up and said they had been watching from the road, "looked great first thing, you were all over it eh" oh aye my ego will take that all day long, at least till the next missed wave.

And more on the way for next week.

Wetsuit warming, wrap it round a bottle of boiling water.