Five surfs in a row in overhead waves spread over a week or so, a definite novelty in this part of the world. Mud in the car, cold wet wetsuits, painfull ears.. Ahh life on the east coast.
Fair to say the wind never made things perfect put whose worrying when there is finally some nice faces to play with.
Surfed the single fin and the quad in equal measure, last surf on the quad and it felt like I was finally at home on it. Last wave at pease on the wrong tide at the far end, I took one of those rare rights and luckily had the speed to get round the first section, a head high face opened up the option for a nice cutback followed by a series of simple turns off the top, finally punching through the wave as it stood up on the beach. Happyness.
Prior to that had the single out at the reef on a busy (by our standards) day, battled with the better surfers and got my share - highlight being a nicely shaped left followed up instantly by a large set right from the outside, twi longggg cutties before I got out of position due to avoiding someone and came out the back, but who is complaining when the faces look like that.
Two week break now due to half term so hopefully a flat period before it all kicks off again.
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