Forgotten how to surf! ... And now remembered.

Nice wee swell at a mildly punchy beach break but when my appendix was taken I also seem to have lost my fitness, wave awareness and balance. Good to be back in the sea properly though. Business as usual on the east coast - waiting for the next swell.....edit which was 7am the following morning as this swell lingered. Perfect small wave logging on the reef at Pease. Solo after an hour, I say solo however there was a seal lurking on the inside. Seem to have rediscovered my surf mojo!