Crazy Swell Hits the East Coast

This week saw a massive forecast and it was really quite hard to believe it was coming the day before. But sure enough the day dawned and it was huge.

The wind was all wrong for the inside of the Forth so one of the open beaches was the only option.

Bellhaven seemed the call as it is possible to paddle out in the corner in the shade of the headland. Well that paddle out in the corner was ok at low but as soon as you paddled over it was big.

I caught six bombs all in. Took the single fin in for the extra volume to get into them but getting caught inside was a whole world of hurt, I walked back to the corner after each wave! I danced on the outside for a while then grew in confidence and moved over. The last two I caught were big and heavy, the first was larger maybe, I was going faster than Roy the worlds fastest surfer when I got to the bottom and still not sure how I got a bottom turn.

The second, f@ck I was in the spot for a monster rifling left, angled take off as it pitched and I just went. I was never not going to make it, that wave started to head towards me sometime on Saturday afternoon. I held the line till it exploded, pulling into the close out looked like death. I had a little cry after that walking up the beach - but its been an emotional week.

Went for another and went further over towards the middle. Tried a big right and pulled back but the board took the falls and put me into the impact zone - came up and there was the first of a big set coming down on my head. Took a brave pill and sat it out and let me get taken to the beach. Called it a day. Stoked.