Big summer swell

Late August saw a big summer swell rolling in and the whole east coast sat up in anticipation, holidays to Cornwall where cancelled and indeed the stench of pasty drifted north.. And it was scheduled to be in and around my birthday - oh happy days.

 

Starter

Started out with two excellent logging sessions over the weekend, at last light and the following morning at first light. Just about warmed me up for the real thing. Logging highlight was being alone in the line up having nearly dismissed it for looking rubbish. So sat in the line up and someone stretching on the beach starts whistling a set. Heads up and I charge out back and turn and go on perhaps the best wave of the weekend, pull out on the inside just in time to thank the chap getting in and continue to share some very pleasant waves with him and another. Part one is all good..

 

Main Course

So (as academics like to say) a business trip came and went and I got to coldy early for a day working on Steves wifi with some surf thrown in. A thumping session followed with some crazy drops and some batterings on the inside. Not great, not bad, just heavy.

 

Got the single fin out for a second session and whist getting it out was hairy at times, it got me into the wave early enough to beat the drop and score some juice.

 

Some great drops were had but mainly close outs then one big one moved in from the back of the bay at the south end. I lined it up to perfection, didn't murder the mental angled take off and then it was full throttle right across the bay - get in my f*cking son.

Got out, walked round to the paddle out channel and round into the same spot and the same wave came through and I was in again, however this time there was warble at the bottom and I went down hard on my back, water squeezed into all orifices - time to call it a day.

 

Quick walk with the family and took the pics below of attfm eating it on inside.

 

Following morning had a long walk in to a spot I like but it was gash, got in for while then gave up and headed to pease, which was really pumping, had some great waves then home for a birthday dinner :)

Friday was utter gash, only stayed in for 20mins then got out to so some work.

Sunday better but the past glories of the week were gone.

 

Once again waiting in anticipation.