Big swell running (see previous post) so I was hoping my sheltered
local was going to be on. Sadly not so drove steadily eastwards till I found
some waves. Looked small so went in on the log. First 30 mins was smallish and
occasionally peeling and very consistent…niceeee. I was either paddling or
surfing, Just me and a seal underneath the castle walls. Got joined by another
and the swell jumped in size, catching me momentarily on the inside. It was
then closing out though so caught the set waves for the fun of it and tried to
look for a barrel on the inside. End result being getting planted two or three
times with no sign of a cover up. Felt quite beaten up the following morning.
Good surf in amazing location.
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| Car needs a wash and not quite long enough for my longboard. |
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