Nice wee surf on the local reef. I had a stinking hangover but getting in is getting in right, and it was hopefully the end of a long flat summer. Actually picked off some nice fast rides, ultra clean, and was in the slot for the largest to come through. Ultra low tides meant that it was gone very quickly and a ballsache getting in through the rocks. Memorable surf due to an excellent turn off the lip, for a moment I felt like a real surfer.
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