Sat outside, surprisingly decent swell has turned up. Not
long period but the waves are rolling in overhead and I had to paddle out by
the rocks to get out. Caught a couple of waves already and find myself all
alone in the line up scouting about looking for the next wave. Here comes a
lump, feel a bit deep but I turn and go – quick paddle – its pitching – might be
in trouble – nope - up and flying backhand down the line, bring it off the
bottom, then off the top…happy days.
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