Out on the road at 4am, killer, but get to my fave Yorkshire reefs at 6.30am. The tide is still too high but there is definitely a good swell showing. Get in about 8.00 and by 9.00 it is going off big time and I have it to myself!! Best surf of the year definitely - overhead on the sets and nice big faces to put some turns into - magic. Long long rides.
Go down the road and take some photos of the experts.
Return for another session - on the Longboard. Swell is less good so paddle all the way out to the 3rd reef in search of size. Its still well overhead on the sets but you have to be right on the peak to catch them - even on the log. And that leaves the danger of getting mowed down by the sneakers - so I get flogged a couple of times but snag a fair few. And the last one is a bomb and gives a big clean open face to bring me the five hundred yards to shore - magic. Quick kip in the car and home by 6pm.
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