surfed traintracks/lefts or whatever the hell its called first thing yesterday, the point section, solo. No idea where I was meant to get in so I just jumped in by the caravans and the little stream. It looked fucking mint from the road as i came over the hill but even on my single fin I couldn't keep up with the fuckin thing. was a fair bit of chop on it too - about waist to chest high - was pretty sketchy and shallow when you were inside - which I was backhand everytime I got closed down. Need to surf it with some more size.
Shit photo but you can see it running down the point - two surfers in.
Shit photo but you can see it running down the point - two surfers in.
Caught a bomb at Tywyn too, yes its a bit gash and the peak was all over the place but the new sea defence has a nice looking wave on it. I went in further down as it had a little crowd and chased shadows untill I caught my monster
