It pushed through the wind
. Was pretty much first to the beach and got in the water before 8 and before it was fully light, just me and a seal for the fist 15 mins.Was pretty small but perfectly lined up for longboards, really well lined up in fact – indeed, when I first paddled out I considered going back in for my carpet as the first set was a bit bigger than I had first thought.
I could see that it was pealing nicely under the cliffs inside the point and paddled over for a look and was rewarded. Was only ever waist to chest high but it was quite consistent and real fun on the longboard, some long rides chasing sections and a couple of fast belters. Shared it with another couple of lads for a while but always had the pickings being the only one on a log. Took a bit long for the sun to show over the cliffs though!
Was dead by 10am and paddle back over to the pier but was knackered so caught a couple and came in. Left the beach after 11am and was home by 1 very happy. Just as was reversing out my slot a decent set came through so it looked like it may have been picking up as it dropped again.
