not everyday a 14second swell comes to our part of the world so first checked a spot that didn't look 14seconds
but it sure looked overhead and clean, got in and some nice waves were coming through, second
wave was wave of the winter - nicely overhead for the first 75 yards then it ran
all the way to the inside, it just walled and walled and carried that perfect
shape that good waves have. Backed that up with a left that was almost as good
but directly into the sun. Caught a few more but the rip was a killer and I had
as it turned out peaked for the day.
Went down to Coldy and had a bacon sarnie in the cafe, it looked nice and sizable from the window and after a dry hair paddle I discovered it was just that and seemed to be getting on for the period advertised. We scratched over one and I recall seeing the guy in front almost upright inside the face as he duck dived..and thinking there was room for someone else below him. Caught a couple but nowt special, lots of close outs and I ate shit a few times, one full out leap from the pitching lip - seemed to take a while to get to the water.
Made my way home and stopped to check our some reefs, which weirdly didn't look as sizable (and neither did Pease) - then ran into Danny, had a chat and watched him surf one of our waves for a while before calling it a day.
