Gash

That promised surf. Rubbish. Nice to be out at 6am in the sun though.

-65

39,000 feet, 11km up, -65degrees, seat 24c, another posting from the air, welcome back to the mile high blog.

Heading home with one third of my brain thinking about the glorious low tide rights of last weekend, one third on the aircraft bill of material numbers I have been crunching for two days and another third on this weekend's forecast. 4ft at 12 seconds on the east coast makes for a meaty swell, and after the recent run I am feeling up for this one..

So about last week, a long period small swell in strong offshore winds, a very low tide dawny at my current favourite spot beckoned.

Having been pessimistic about the size I only had my log in the car so the 9.4 Nineplus Don it was. 3 hours of punchy blissfull walling rights onto a shallow shoulder followed, waves shared with a just one or two others. There was some small inside barrels on offer and whilst I parked it in the pocket in one (causing a smile of appreciation from the channel), I never quite found the holy grail we are all looking for. 

However, the early catch of the longboard and the additional wave face that provides allowed for more time to think about positioning on the wave and I started to surf In the pocket more thus generating more speed down the line and ultimately more pace to do more with the wave. Another step in the right direction.

They say that fear makes the wolf look bigger, well when I was putting the log away I looked at my short board and it suddenly didn't looks so small and unstable. Starting to feel ready to really surf it properly. 4ft at 12s....it'll be in the car this weekend.