mid wales

Mid wales, wind was howling offshore by about 10.30 and everywhere got blown.
the afternoon was fun at times though - had a few small good ones. Heres me stylin the first wave of the session - bit different from the morning which was cold heavy and good for one unbelievable left!

I come away from last week with mixed feelings - 3 days earlier I think I had my heaviest/biggest wave at Tywyn, a right, and then on sunday I get maybe my best left ever - but then I let myself slip out to the shoulder and stop competing properly for the waves and then start getting cold. a 4 wave session - one early right, then the good un then a couple of of scraps when i moved down the point.

mid wales

surfed traintracks/lefts or whatever the hell its called first thing yesterday, the point section, solo. No idea where I was meant to get in so I just jumped in by the caravans and the little stream. It looked fucking mint from the road as i came over the hill but even on my single fin I couldn't keep up with the fuckin thing. was a fair bit of chop on it too - about waist to chest high - was pretty sketchy and shallow when you were inside - which I was backhand everytime I got closed down. Need to surf it with some more size.

Shit photo but you can see it running down the point - two surfers in.

Caught a bomb at Tywyn too, yes its a bit gash and the peak was all over the place but the new sea defence has a nice looking wave on it. I went in further down as it had a little crowd and chased shadows untill I caught my monster